Most likely causes
Cracked glass
- Something heavy dropped on the surface
- Thermal shock, such as a cold pan on a hot zone
- Overheated empty pan
A burner that won't heat
- Failed radiant element
- Bad infinite switch behind the knob
- Loose or burned wiring connection
- On induction: non-magnetic cookware or a failed coil or power board
Try this before you book
- For any crack, stop using the cooktop. Spills can reach the wiring.
- For induction, hold a magnet to your pan. If it doesn't stick firmly, the pan won't work.
- Test another pan of the right size. Induction zones won't start with pans that are too small.
- Check whether other burners work. If all are dead, check the breaker.
Parts we replace most often
- Glass top (part cost varies widely by brand)
- Radiant element
- Infinite switch
- Induction coil or power board
Fix it or replace it?
On mid-range and premium cooktops, replacing the glass alone is usually the better value. On an older, entry-level unit, the glass can cost close to half the price of a new cooktop, so we'll quote both. Dead burners are almost always worth repairing.
From John's notes: Replacement glass for some brands takes a few days to arrive. If yours cracked, cover it and don't use it in the meantime. We've seen small cracks spread overnight from one hot pan.
Cracked or dead cooktop? Book a cooktop repair with TrueFix Appliance Repair Dallas.