Most likely causes
- Clogged exhaust vent. Long runs to the roof, common in Dallas two-story homes, clog faster.
- Crushed or kinked foil hose behind the dryer.
- Blocked exterior vent flap (lint, bird nests, or paint).
- Overloaded drum.
- Weak heating element or igniter that heats, but not enough.
- Faulty moisture sensor that ends cycles too early.
Try this before you book
- Clean the lint screen and wash it with soap if it looks coated (dryer sheets leave film).
- Pull the dryer out and straighten or replace any crushed foil hose.
- Run the dryer and go outside. You should feel strong, warm airflow at the vent hood.
- Wipe the moisture sensor bars inside the drum with rubbing alcohol.
What the repair usually involves
- Dryer vent cleaning (roof vents take longer)
- Moisture sensor
- Heating element (electric)
- Igniter (gas)
Fix it or replace it?
Slow drying almost never calls for a new dryer. Fixing airflow restores performance and lowers the electric bill. Replacement only comes up if the dryer is old and the motor or control board has also failed.
From John's notes: A blocked vent makes the dryer run hotter inside, and that's what keeps blowing thermal fuses. If you've replaced a fuse and it blew again, the vent is almost certainly the real problem.
Clothes still damp? Book a dryer service with TrueFix Appliance Repair Dallas.